Sportello is an Italian word for “counter” and this little restaurant indeed consists mostly of a long, W-shaped counter. There’s an open kitchen behind it and a couple of tables off to the side.
Alli and I went there for dinner with Iva and Demetri a couple of weeks ago, but I haven’t had time to write up my review until now.
It’s a small, cozy, modern, white place. The food is creative Italian, as you might expect. The wine list and menu are short and simple, but there are some good findings. Unfortunately, none of the food was particularly remarkable. Same for the wine.
It was all good, but nothing amazing. I enjoyed the atmosphere and the companions at dinner, but I would have enjoyed dinner with them anywhere else just as much.
It’s a nice addition to the neighborhood at a fairly reasonable price point.
The one really nice thing is because this is set up like a lunch counter anyhow, it’s very easy and convenient to find a single spot when eating alone. You’re not taking up a whole table and extra space.
Overall, Sportello was nice, and if I were in the area, I’d go there for lunch now and again. But I’m not sure it’s worth a special trip. The other places in Barbara Lynch‘s empire, like B+G Oysters and The Butcher Shop, I liked a lot more. And of course #9 Park, which is not in the same ballpark as these restaurants.
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